Back on the road again – and it feels good!

Follow me on the first stage of my cycle ride around Britain—an adventure I’ll be completing in sections, when the weather is fair and life allows. I’m still figuring out what “Britain” includes exactly (suggestions welcome!), but this first leg took me 200 miles from Scarborough up to Berwick-upon-Tweed, with plenty of scenery, encounters, and mishaps along the way.

The Adventure Begins – Scarborough to Robin Hood’s Bay

The route started out of Scarborough along the Cinder Track, a disused railway line turned traffic-free trail that winds through 21 miles of North Yorkshire’s dramatic coastline. It’s a stunning route—think wide views, railway relics, and a wonderfully peaceful, off-road feel.

That said, the surface has its quirks: muddy, stony, and quite worn in places. Manageable, but I did find myself pushing the bike on a few tricky stretches. Worth it for the views, though!

I camped that night at Hooks House Farm, just outside Robin Hood’s Bay. It’s a clean, quiet site on a bit of a slope, with a fantastic location—just a 5-minute walk to the village’s pubs, bakeries, and shops. There’s even a footpath down to the bay through fields.
Rookie error of the day: I hadn’t noticed that my stove had broken, and I had to borrow a pair of pliers to turn the gas on.

Day 1 Picture Gallery

Day 2: Robin Hood’s Bay to Kildale – A Few Sat Nav Woes

Continuing on the Cinder Track to Whitby, I then turned inland and climbed up over the North York Moors toward the campsite at Kildale. Navigation got a bit confusing—don’t trust your SatNav for this bit! I spent a fair while wandering around the hillside behind the farm before realising the site is actually signposted as Park Farm, not Kildale Camping Barn (despite the online listing). It was a quiet and basic site, but I managed to buy two much-needed beers from the farmer!

I had a good chat with a man staying in The Byre, who was about to start a new job as a ranger with the Wildlife Trust. Lovely to meet someone at the start of an exciting new chapter.

Day 2 Photo Slideshow

Day 3: Full English, First Puncture, and Friendly Faces

I had hoped to catch up with my friend Brenda (of Cycle Touring Festival fame), but hadn’t given her enough notice. Still, the day began with a warm welcome and a hearty £5 breakfast at the Connections Community Café in Middlesbrough—full English, coffee, and good cheer all served up with a smile.

I followed the Three Rivers Cycle Route through Billingham, heading toward the coast, when I noticed my back tyre going soft. First puncture of the trip! Luckily, I was within a mile of a Halfords and they sorted me out. It did eat into the day’s time, though, so I decided to hop on a train from Seaton Carew to Horden, then rode the final 4 miles to The Barn at Easington, my next campsite.

The campsite is set on a 30 acre farm in a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Set up on a hillside it has tremendous views across the bay.

People Make the Journey

One of the joys of solo touring is the people you meet. That night, I met Val, a spirited cyclist from New Zealand, who casually mentioned she had “ten years on me” and was solo touring the Scottish Borders and North of England.

She told me about stopping at a social club the previous evening to ask if she could camp outside. The members were so surprised—and concerned—that a woman in her late 70s was camping alone that they made sure she had food and was warm. Proof again that kindness is alive and well.

Day 3 – Photos

Day 4 – From the Coast to the City

Leaving The Barn, I cycled north toward Newcastle, passing the Seaham Sports & Social Club where Val had stayed. Riding into Newcastle was a highlight—fantastic, well-signed cycle paths made it a joy.

If I’d given more notice I might have been able to catch up with Kevin, an old hillwalking friend, but again, poor planning on my part.

From Newcastle, I followed brilliant cycle lanes all the way to Morpeth and camped at Tranwell Farm. At £20, this campsite was a bit over budget, but was very peaceful. It had good basic facilities and is well located for NCN 1 and NCN 155, though options are limited in this area—please comment if you know any other good camping spots nearby!

Day 5 – Punctures and Plan B’s

Bloomin’ ’eck — a second puncture in three days! This one really threw a spanner in the works and meant a bit of a scramble to sort things out. Huge thanks to Ian at Pedal Power for getting me rolling again — if you ever fancy a trip like this with a bit of backup (as any sane person might), he’s your man. I’ll be wearing my shiny new Pedal Power buff with pride.

In the end, the faff meant I changed tack and treated myself to a night indoors at the Hermitage Inn in Warkworth. Comfy bed, a hot shower, and a quiet evening to regroup — just what I needed.

Day 6 Castles, Coastlines and a Day to Breathe

After all the drama, I slowed things right down. Took a day off the bike at Beadnell Bay and let the coastal path set the pace. The stretch through Seahouses, Bamburgh, and up towards Lindisfarne was misty, still, and utterly beautiful.

The End of this road

There’s something about pedalling quietly along that kind of coastline — salt in the air, sea just over your shoulder — that settles the mind. I stayed the last night of this trip at the Barn at Beal, just near the causeway to Holy Island, and set off early the next morning to cross before the tide came in. It was a special way to end this leg of the journey.

The next day, Berwick-upon-Tweed was just a short hop from Lindisfarne and I had a couple of hours to explore the town before catching my train, legs a little tired, heart full, and head whirring with everything I’d seen and felt along the way.

This first stretch has been more than just a ride. It’s reminded me of what I’m capable of, how kind strangers can be, and how a bit of bad luck can often lead to good stories (and pub stays).

Lessons Learned and Looking Ahead

And that’s a wrap for Stage 1. Around 200 miles in total, and a very satisfying start to this long-haul adventure. One takeaway? I need to give people a bit more notice! I missed out on the option of taking a ferry across the Tyne, or cycling under it,  the sculpture trail at Newbiggin-by-the-Sea… and most importantly, the chance to meet up with old friends. Next time, I’ll shout louder in advance.

Next up: the road from Berwick to Aberdeen, — and the rest of Scotland in 2025.

Still no route map.
Still moving forward.
Watch this space

Recommended Highlights

Here are a few spots and links worth exploring, whether you’re planning your own journey or just curious where I’ve been:

• The Cinder Track – An atmospheric ride along an old railway line between Scarborough and Whitby. Sustrans
• Hooks House Farm Campsite – Near Robin Hood’s Bay, great views and a footpath straight to the sea. hookshousefarm.co.uk
• Kildale Camping Barn – A quiet, basic site with friendly vibes – just remember you are looking for Park Farm. Website
• Community Cafe, Middlesbrough – For warm welcomes and £5 full English breakfasts. Facebook page
• The Barn at Easington – A unique place to stay on a working farm with a creative twist. thebarnateasington.co.uk
• Pedal Power Adventure Cycling – If you fancy some support on your own adventure. pedal-power.co.uk
• The Barn at Beal – Perfect base for an early ride to Lindisfarne. barnatbeal.com
• Coast & Castles Cycle Route – A brilliant way to explore Northumberland’s dramatic coastline. Sustrans Route NCN 1

Coming Soon

I’ll be back with more reflections, routes and photos from the next leg and if you’ve enjoyed reading this, feel free to leave a comment or share with anyone who’d be interested — and if you know any scenic, bike-friendly campsites, cafes and accommodation in Scotland, I’m all ears!

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With thanks to ChatGPT for helping research, structure, and grammar check this post.

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