Join me on Stage 2 of my cycle journey around Britain from Berwick-upon-Tweed to Aberdeen, covering 263 miles of stunning Scottish coast, bike-friendly paths, and memorable conversations.

Day 1 – Berwick-upon-Tweed to East Linton

A late start after travelling up by train from Manchester meant a late finish, but it was a superb first day. I followed Sustrans Route 76 through the countryside, stopping for a break at Eyemouth, and finished with a swoop downhill into Dunbar for fish and chips, then on to my bed for the night in East Linton.

Day 1 Photo Slideshow

A lovely evening with my Warmshowers host, Keith, swapping Type 2 and Type 3 adventure tales (the kind you only enjoy in hindsight). A quiet ride through countryside and coastal tracks led into Edinburgh, then came the challenge of navigating my way out again, before finally crossing the car-free Forth Road Bridge—fantastic views and a lasting memory.

For some reason, I thought my next Warmshowers host was in Burntisland rather than Aberdour. After cycling three miles along a gnarly coastal path (and after a long day I felt every one of those miles and bumps), and another fish and chip supper, I caught the train back to Aberdour where I was warmly welcomed by Mary and Howard.

Day 3/4 – Aberdour to Cellardyke

After another great evening—this time cycling stories turned into sewing pattern chats—Mary and Howard gave me a lovely en-suite room. Luxury compared to my usual basics on the road! Then it was off up the Fife Coastal Way.

I stopped for ice cream and stocked up on camping food at Anstruther before reaching Bankhead Farm, where I set up my home from home for the next couple of nights and did a bit of touristing.

A highlight of my day off was a visit to Scotland’s Secret Bunker – a fascinating insight into the Cold War era and the real fear of nuclear attack. Highly recommended: give yourself a couple of hours to explore and watch the documentaries (one of which I feel should come with a PG rating!).

Carol, the campsite owner, suggested a walk along the coastal path to Crail, where I could catch a bus back. I followed her advice and had supper at the Golf Hotel in Crail. Yummy!

Day 3/4 Photo Slideshow

Day 5 – Another bridge – but not too far this time. Cellardyke to Dundee

I left Bankhead Farm taking the ‘old road’ along farm tracks and into St Andrews, where I saw a bride arriving at church in a Land Rover to the sound of bagpipes—a very Scottish moment! I then rode past the Home of Golf and crossed the Tay Bridge into Dundee to stay with Bridget, my third Warmshowers host of the trip.

After a great evening of conversation (and narrowly avoiding being called up for karaoke in the local pub!), we made plans to meet again at the Celtic Connections festival next January.

Day 5 Photo Slideshow

Day 6 – Dundee to Forfar

Bridget and I had discussed the best way to get to Forfar avoiding the busy main roads. In the end I chose a totally different route! After a quick visit to the Dundee V&A, I followed NCN Route 1 along the coast to Carnoustie before heading inland to meet up with Debbie and Iain just outside Forfar.

We first met at an Horizon Unlimited Mountain Madness in the Pyrenees – two-days of GPS-free, on and off-road orienteering event, and a lot of bruises, in the eastern Pyrenees of Catalunya, Spain. We’ve stayed in touch and shared many a soggy Type 2 adventure (including a wild swim in a a Pennine resevoir – not to be repeated!) I will be posting my memories of these trips soon.

Now back in Forfar, Debbie and Iain have found their forever home in the foothills of the Cairngorms. I arrived perfectly in time for a roast dinner and an evening of reminiscing. After a peaceful night’s sleep, Iain showed me their small woodland, which he’s protecting with deer fencing to allow new saplings to grow.

He told me has named some of the trees – two big oaks called Arthur and Guinevere, and another called Angus.  When Iain said he’d name a Scots pine after my nephew, Joe, it was a quiet gesture, simply offered, but it meant a great deal. He’s chosen that particular tree because a pair of red kites have made their nest there—so Joe’s tree will stand as a reference point for anyone visiting the woodland. Something grounded and alive, quietly marking his place in the world.

After saying goodbye, I set off again, heading back down to the coast. My thoughts drifted—some sad, some full of warmth. Encounters like this, grounded in friendship and quiet understanding, are what make these journeys matter. They stay with you, long after the path has turned.

At Debbie and Iain’s

Day 6 – Last evening on the road

That night, I camped at the grandly named Miltonhaven Caravan and Camping, at St Cyrus Bay. For £6, I had full use of a campers’ kitchen, a huge common room, and plenty of charging points. There was no shop on-site, but I’d picked up supplies in St Cyrus.

That evening, I walked along the coast to the Anchor at Johnshaven, where I sat with a pint watching the world (well, one man and his dog) go by.

Day 6 – The last push to Aberdeen

It was a pleasant ride to Stonehaven—then things got a bit pear-shaped. Cycling into Aberdeen seemed to take forever! But eventually, I arrived in the Granite City: 263 miles in total, and still smiling.

It’s been a fabulous week—scenery, stories, and sunshine. For much of my journey I followed Sustrans Routes, brilliant, well signed, long-distance cycle paths.

Recommended highlights

• Staying with Warmshower hosts – immediate connections and interesting conversations.
• One of the highlights was Scotland’s Secret Bunker – a Cold War relic turned into an immersive visitor experience. Absolutely worth a visit!
• In Dundee, I stopped at V&A Dundee, an architectural landmark and a hub for Scottish design.
• The views along the Fife Coastal Path were breathtaking – especially near Anstruther and Crail.
• The Celtic Connections Festival is already in my diary for January – a great excuse to reunite with fellow travellers.

I’m now looking forward to the next stage with Liz, Dawn, and Paul (aka Three Spokeys and a Blokey). But first, a glass of wine, and a bit of recovery…

Coming Soon

• Three Stokeys and a Blokey – the adventure continues with some company.
• I’ll be sharing memories of those off-road antics in the Pyrenees and more here soon…

In the meantime, you can find out more about me and the purpose of this blog here and did you miss Stage 1? You can read about my journey from Scarborough to Berwick Upon Tweed, here

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With thanks to ChatGPT for helping research, structure, and grammar check this post.

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