The End of This Road
To satisfy my pedantic need to set foot on one of the Inner Hebridean islands, I took the ferry to Coll and discovered it to be the best place yet for hospitality. It had the feel of a favoured stop for the sailing fraternity, and the establishments reflected that. I enjoyed an excellent plate of fish and chips accompanied by a generously sized glass of chilled wine before heading on to the campsite near the island’s airport.
The following day I boarded the ferry to Oban. The passage through the Sound of Mull was quietly beautiful.
In most circumstances Oban would feel like a calm, civilised place, but after nearly 200 miles of remote wilderness it landed oddly, almost too much: traffic, movement, human noise. I followed the narrow strip of water separating the Isle of Kerrera from the mainland and reached my final night of the journey, staying with Phil and Hannah, Warmshowers hosts, where things settled back into scale again.
Why this leg mattered
What made this stage different from earlier stages of this tour of Britain, especially those shared with family and friends, was the way it stripped everything back. Without company to absorb the frustrations or share decisions, every wrong turn, weather call, and change of plan landed squarely with me. Yet it was also the leg where strangers mattered most: beds offered, batteries charged, and experiences shared. This stretch reminded me what solo travel asks for: patience, resilience, adaptability, and a quiet trust that things will usually work out, just not quite always as planned.
If you’re still reading, thank you, it was a big trip. I’m starting to plan the next leg of this round-Britain journey now, from Oban to Dumfries via the Isle of Arran. In the meantime, I’ll be posting occasional reflections from earlier adventures: walking, cycling, and motorcycling.
If you’d like to be notified when new posts appear, you can subscribe to the blog. I tend to write only when there’s something worth saying, and normally in much shorter bursts than this one!
No Route Map: Still Learning, Still Looking 
Really interesting read and honest reflection on a difficult and challenging but ultimately rewarding ride. Well done, Deb. Keep it up.
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Thanks Liz!
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